Car polishing
Car polishing is the process that has the greatest impact on the final result, both in terms of the appearance of the paint and its brilliance.
The action of the auto polishing allows you to remove the imperfections present on the transparent that make the surface dull and old such as swirls, scratches, halos, engravings, paint defects such as orange peel and drips, oxidation , etc ... These imperfections cause the fragmentation of the light, decrease the reflection of the light, create haze effects, reducing the sharpness of the image.
The goal of body polishing is to carefully remove all those small imperfections and prepare the surface to receive a protective that will preserve its value.
When to polish the car and how often
Our advice is to proceed with the polishing of the car in case of obvious defects or when we simply intend to make the appearance of our car as good as possible.
We would therefore generally say to polish your car 1 or twice a year, following a full cleaning process.
To protect the result obtained, we indicate the guide “ Washing and Drying ” .
To keep the paint in good condition we recommend the use of one of our protective products in the shop such as SC0 or SC1 , or one of our waxes or sealants, maintained with H20 Coat and W1 Quick Detailer or others in the catalog , to minimize the need for polishing.
Our advice is to always use maintenance products belonging to the same brand as the protective product you have applied.
This will allow you to get the best out of that protective product without covering it with products that don't have the same chemical characteristics.
The polishing options are varied, we at Car-Care.it recommend:
- Manual polishing .
- Polishing using random orbital polisher .
- Polishing using rotary polisher .
Polish the car by hand with with a polisher?
Polishing by hand is possible, but in order to obtain uniform and reliable results we recommend the use of a polisher.
The use of the polisher also allows us to change, as needed, products and pads as they use the same Velcro attachment.
The simplicity of operation, the swapping speed of the pads and the speed compared to a manual action make the use of a polisher the absolutely superior method.
Ok the body polish, but which one?
The polish landscape offers many options, so many that it is difficult to choose the best one for our specific case.
For enthusiasts, we recommend having a polish of each type, so that you can face every challenge obtaining the best result .
With so many polish options available, it can become difficult to choose the most effective product for the needs of the moment
Every paint is different and over time you will become able to recognize them and act accordingly.
Below we present a list of the most used polish and its use, furthermore, further on, there will be our guide on bodywork imperfections, to know some already tested combinations of polish:
Compound
F1 Force One and Honey Hard Cutting Compound (1+) should only be used for very damaged vehicles or to remove traces of a sanding action (starting from a grain of P1500).
These compounds are used with the white pad U1 which has a very hard surface suitable for the type of processing.
In case you are faced with a varnish with a transparent that is not too hard we recommend using Honey Cutting Compound (1) , combining the Wool pad Pad to remove deep defects and a orange pad U2 to remove medium / light defects.
Medium Polish.
A1 All In One and Honey Polishing Compound (2) they are medium polishes that correct moderate imperfections, even the grooves and allow to obtain an extremely high degree of gloss, starting from a grain of P2000, therefore less aggressive than a compound.
Medium polish in great demand on the market as it is an "all in one, one-step" this means that it allows you to complete an entire job without changing the product but only the pad: first the orange pad U2 medium-hard and then the green buffer U3 medium-soft.
Polish for finishing.
P1 Polish Up and Honey Combination - finishing compound ( 3) have the objective of removing every slightest imperfection from the paint, such as micro defects and holograms.
The finishing polishes do not remove deep imperfections, but are used because they are able to treat the paint obtaining maximum levels of shine and intensity with extreme delicacy to obtain a mirror effect and prepare the way for the subsequent application of a wax or sealant.
In this case, the use of a soft buffer such as gray buffer U4 is suitable for this type of condition.
If you are faced with a varnish with a very soft transparent we recommend using Honey Light Finishing Compound (3+) combined with
DIFFERENT PADS FOR DIFFERENT USES.
The choice of tampons is a fundamental decision, as the use of unsuitable tampons (or combinations of them) can lead to waste of time and excessive work.
The abrasiveness of the chosen pad must match that of the product you want to use.
Types of pads.
The pads are designed to provide the best performance:
- trapezoidal, for working on surfaces that are not perfectly smooth, avoid possible damage caused by the pad and make the treatment more lasting.
- open cell technology, to allow effective heat dispersion.
- central hole, to avoid accumulation of dirt and residues.
Our range of pads, from the most to the least aggressive, includes:
- Wool pad
- White pad U1 hard open cell foam.
- Orange pad U2 medium hard in open cell foam.
- Green pad U3 medium soft in open cell foam.
-
Gray pad U4 soft sponge with open cells.
All the aforementioned pads are of the brand Honey Combination series U .
In addition to the above mentioned, there are pads in microfiber , with great abrasive capacity, to be used with random orbital .
It should be emphasized that the action with microfiber pad must necessarily be accompanied by a finishing polish and medium soft pad such as our green pad U3
An alternative to this kind of pad is the orange u2 medium hard: high cutting power but also suitable for finishing.
The white U1 pad hard is made of very dense sponge, which makes it aggressive in terms of abrasiveness.
These pads are generally used in combination with cutting compounds on vehicles with severe to medium / severe defects.
We always recommend that you follow the use of the white abrasive pad with a step with medium polish, or finishing, and a softer pad.
The orange pad U3 is perfect for use with medium polish for a one-step action in which to remove swirls, scratches and other paint imperfections with very high gloss levels.
We always recommend if you want to use only an "all in one" to start with the orange buffer U2 and for the refinement go to green buffer U3 .
The gray U4 pad soft is perfect for final finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Finishing Compound (3) or Honey Light Finishing Compound (3+) .
The size of the pad.
The size of the pad affects the treatment methods, the speed of the process and the control of the polisher.
The smaller the pad, the greater the maneuverability (for example for areas such as gaskets and corners), but at the same time it will be more quickly soaked in product and will have to be replaced more frequently.
We recommend replacing the pad after working 2 body sections, thus using 3 to 5 during the treatment.
In general, the cleaner and more abrasive-free the pad, the better the result.
The larger the pad, the greater the work area covered and the time taken, being used particularly in the application of waxes and sealants that must be spread evenly.
We recommend using 1 or 2 pads in total, in order to maximize the polishing result.
However, we must point out that the downside of using large pads is their lower precision in small areas.
With random orbital polishers , the smaller the pad, the more effectively you will be able to polish, since the energy of the action is applied to a small area.
There is therefore no better measure than another, but it all depends on the polisher used, the needs and effectiveness of a particular combination.
If we were to recommend an intermediate solution, we recommend a size from 125 to 150mm.
Buffer maintenance.
During use, the pads become impregnated with the product and must be replaced
To prolong their life cycle, we recommend that you have a bucket containing water and detergent in which to immerse the pads immediately after use.
After soaking, proceed with rinsing with a pressure lance or water hose.
It is good practice to use only one type of polish per pad.
COMBINATIONS OF POLISH AND BUFFER.
Generally the combination to be followed from the most to the least aggressive is the following:
Wool pad > in combination with all pastes ( greater cutting power than the pad).
White buffer U1 > in combination with F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) or Honey combination - cutting compound (1)
Orange buffer U2 > in combination with A1 All in One or
Green buffer U3 > in combination with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3)
Gray buffer U4 > in combination with G1 Glossy or Honey Combination - Light finishing compound (3+)
CHOICE OF THE BACKING PAD FOR THE PAD.
There is no polisher without a pad.
The choice of her is directly linked to the tampon we intend to use and to our inclinations in terms of application.
It is useful to equip yourself with pads of various sizes in order to always proceed with the application using the best solution.
The surface of the pad is composed of small hooks (velcro) that will easily attach to the special surface behind the pad .
Simply center the pad on the plate and press so that they are attached.
It is essential to always use sanding pads smaller than the pad.
THE IMPERFECTIONS OF THE BODY.
Stains.
Bodywork stains are generally caused by limescale residues on the bodywork, which affect the surface due to the sun's rays.
To eliminate them, it is advisable to go to step, then carry out a first test with DS Scale , should this not be resolved, proceed with the usually "aggressive" polishing.
Manual: not recommended.
Random orbital :
Use F1 Force One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + White buffer U1 .
Subsequently A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + Green buffer U3 .
Rotary :
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound ( 1) + white honey pad ocf or in the presence of deep stains use wool pad followed by the orange pad
Then we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red honey buffer ocf .
Oxidation: a constant danger.
We never think about it, but the factors that can heavily affect damage to our bodywork are infinite and practically, always around the corner.
The oxidation of the bodywork is a sneaky and silent enemy, it acts with constancy and irreparably leads to the loss of brilliance and reflections. For this reason it is very important to use detergents and sealants consistently.
In case you are not aware of this information and have not adequately protected your bodywork in the past, we will explain what to do in case you notice an advanced state of oxidation of the bodywork .
To eliminate oxidation we recommend:
Manual treatment:
F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound ( 1+) + manual pad
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + Orange buffer U2 .
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + green honey buffer ocf .
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red honey buffer ocf .
Orange peel.
Unfortunately, this annoying body defect is sometimes also present in the car as soon as you leave the dealership.
How to identify it? Just observe the color against the light: in the event that the conformation of the paint appears lumpy, giving the effect of the peel of the aforementioned fruit, your bodywork presents a problem of "orange peel" precisely.
How we said, it is a rather common problem that depends on a defect in the paint guns and an incorrect dilution of the color. the use of different grain abrasive papers (P1500 -P2000 - P3000) after checking the feasibility of the operation with a micrometer.
After leveling the surface, you can proceed with polishing with the help of the correct supports.
In the specific case of polishing, we strongly advise against manual treatment.
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use F1 Force One or Hone y combination - cutting compound (1) + White buffer U1 .
Then refine
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + Wool pad , followed by green honey pad ocf
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red honey buffer ocf .
Swirl marks: what they are and how to eliminate them
Swirl marks are nothing more than light scratches that greatly affect the gloss of a bodywork.
Normally they originate following an unsuitable washing or polishing carried out following a careless decontamination.
Here's how to fight them:
Manual treatment:
F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) + manual pad .
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + Orange buffer U2 .
Then you could proceed with A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + Green buffer U3
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + green honey pad ocf or in the presence of deep stains use wool pad followed by green honey buffer ocf .
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up
Rids (Random Isolated Deeper Scratches).
The rids are, very trivially, scratches a little deeper than the previous ones, which impact on the bodywork in a much more important way.
causes can be disparate and the solutions different, depending on the extent of the damage.
For substantially superficial rids, polishing is certainly a decisive treatment with an excellent yield.
Manual treatment:
F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) + manual pad .
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use F1 Force One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1)
Subsequently A1 All in One or
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + green honey pad ocf or in the presence of deep stains use Wool pad followed by green honey buffer ocf .
Damage from incorrect sanding:
Sanding is an extremely delicate treatment, to be carried out only in case of absolute necessity and for which it is advisable to proceed with extreme caution and only if in possession of the adequate skills
By intervening with abrasive products and materials, it is clear that the risk that marks will remain is quite high.
Also in this case, we do not recommend trying to fix the damage manually.
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use F1 Force One o Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + White buffer U1 .
Subsequently A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + Green pad U3 to improve the finishing.
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + wool pad , followed by green honey pad ocf .
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red honey buffer ocf .
Holograms.
This type of defect is undoubtedly one of the worst nightmares for those who polish and appear as fine grouped scratches.
The causes that can lead to their origin are disparate:
incorrect roughing or direct effect of a pad with impurities are just two of the main triggers of this defect.
However, being extremely superficial damage, their elimination it's a really simple procedure!
Let's see how to intervene:
Manual treatment:
F1 Force One or
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + orange buffer U2 , in the presence of non-serious holograms it is possible to use P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + Buffer and green U3 .
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One o Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + green buffer ocf , in the presence of non-serious holograms it is possible to use P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3)
"Pork tails".
These types of scratches are the direct effect of the passage of a random orbital, a polisher or a sanding machine with pads that are not perfectly clean.
They originate in due to debris particles that stick to the pads, originating this type of damage with a typical and easily recognizable shape.
In the event that this type of damage occurs, the simplest and most immediate solution is certainly to proceed with a second polishing pass.
Manual treatment:
F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) +
Use F1 Force One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1) + white buffer U1
Subsequently A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) +
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + honey wool pad , followed by orange pad U2 .
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red buffer ocf .
Insect residues.
Not everyone knows this, but unfortunately the insect residues have an acidic nature and unfortunately often manage to damage the bodywork by penetrating into the transparent.
Unfortunately, this is a fairly serious problem.
In case of recent contamination, a thorough washing followed by claying could be sufficient and decisive; in the most serious cases, a correspondence may be necessary to eliminate all the damaged transparent.
In any case, a deep polishing can be decisive to solve and effectively eliminate this type of defect, here is how to proceed:
F1 Force One , Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) + manual pad .
Treatment with random orbital polisher:
Use F1 Force One or Honey combination - cutting compound (1)
Subsequently A1 All in One o Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + Green buffer U3 to improve the refinement.
Treatment with rotary polisher:
Use A1 All in One or Honey Combination - polishing compound (2) + honey wool pad , followed by pad orange U2 .
Subsequently we recommend finishing with P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) + red buffer ocf .
Introduction to auto polishing
As already amply illustrated in this guide, most damage to the body paint can be corrected and give excellent results; for an optimal result, however, it is advisable to follow the steps that will be illustrated below to the letter. t78> SP1 Prewash and S2 Foamy and mechanically decontaminated with clay bar .
You can learn more about this point by following our guide:
Decontamination .
A photographic set light.
The first step to take to optimize the polishing process is to invest in an adequate light: a high quality light will help you analyze the bodywork by bringing out every defect, even the smallest and above all it will help you to understand quickly. what is the best modality of intervention to obtain the desired results
Prevention is better than cure.
Consistently reduce the risks of damaging other parts of the car to be treated by always remembering to mask the parts you want to protect with adhesive tape.
the impact of this operation will also be positive for other reasons.
An example?
Masking with adhesive tape will not damage or dent the gaskets.
Which parts should be masked before polishing?
Normally the gaskets, badges, rear and front lights, bumpers are masked and more.
Are you in doubt about whether or not to mask a car part?
Mask it. As they say: “prevention is better than cure.”
Types of polishing of the car body
Hand polishing.
We start from the assumption that mechanically proceeding with polishing is usually advisable, precisely because of the technical characteristics of the polishes that require constant pressure and very measured movements to give the best.
If you are unable to use a polisher or do not have one, follow these steps and our guide to obtain excellent results from a manual polishing.
It is recommended to apply the polish using a microfibre cloth or foam (such as our Foam app ), the choice between the two will depend on the work you have to do and obviously on the type of product applied (polish , compound, sealant or wax to be combined).
Considering that manual polishing is naturally less effective than that performed by means of a polisher, we recommend the use of a compound such as F1 Force One or Honey combination - hard cutting compound (1+) .
We recommend using Polish finishing ( P1 Polish Up or Honey Combination - finishing compound (3) ) only in case you want to clean the surface before applying a wax or sealant.
Guided hand polishing:
- Select a manual applicator, for example: Foam app .
- Evaluate which is the best product to apply following the instructions in the previous guide.
- Distribute a few small drops of Polish on the applicator.
- Work to the maximum on an area of 20x20cm and apply as little pressure as possible.
- Distribute the product by means of controlled circular movements.
- Work from left to right and then from top to bottom.
- As soon as finished, use Micron 2F to eliminate excess product.
- Check the state of the bodywork with light source.
- Repeat all the previous steps until the desired result is achieved.
Once the polishing is finished, the more superficial defects in the bodywork should appear much less noticeable or even have disappeared.
Thanks to a clearer and less damaged surface, the bodywork will gain a lot in terms of shine and brightness.
Finish with a sealant (such as Sc0 Hydro Sealant or SC1 Sealant ) which will help keep the surface smooth and shiny by protecting it or apply a glaze (such as G1 Glossy , Adam's Brilliant Glaze
You can learn more about this point by following our guide:
What are glazes .
Polishing with random orbital.
The random orbital polisher is certainly the best aid to be adopted in the case of a polishing treatment: its rotation axis is in fact decentralized with respect to to the axis of revolution, this helps to operate a less invasive work (because it is more delicate and homogeneous).
The random orbital polisher is also easier to use even for the less experienced.
Rupes Bigfoot, Flex and Flestool, produce random orbital that thanks to a reduced size, allow to approach the cutting and correction performance of a rotary polisher, but without incurring the risk of creating holograms, also reducing processing times by 40%.
Guided random orbital polishing:
- Choose the right swab for the type of intervention to be performed (carefully evaluate the defect to be corrected).
- Center the pad on the pad.
- Apply a few drops of polish on the outside of the pad.
- Outline the work area, starting with a small portion of 60 cm x 40 cm
- Trace the work area by distributing the polish with the polisher off, evenly over the entire area.
- Switch on the polisher at minimum speed 1-3 and distribute the polish on the work surface.
- Increase the speed of the polisher gradually to speed 4.5 - 6, starting from a corner of the identified surface.
- Apply a pressure of 7 / 10Kg on the polisher head.
- Always work from one corner to another, moving about 2cm per second.
- Once you have reached the opposite corner, follow the same path in reverse.
- Continue in this way until the entire area is polished.
- Polish the whole area again by repeating the previous operations but proceeding in the opposite direction.
- Polish again as in the first step but applying less pressure.
- If the polish has deteriorated (it becomes a white matte patina), turn off the polisher.
- With profipolish cloth or micron 2F innovacar , remove excess product.
- Check the work done with a light source.
- Repeat steps 3 to 16 until the entire vehicle is polished.
NB: after polishing two areas of the bodywork it is absolutely advisable to replace the pad with a fresh one, if you do not have many pads, remember to wash them with the aid of a toothbrush, keeping them at low speed after a couple of sessions .
Carry out this operation strictly away from the bodywork.
Roto-eccentric polishing.
Roto-eccentric polishers are the most powerful and allow safe work with a very minimal margin of error.
Thanks to their power, these machines are able to remove imperfections quickly and definitively.
Roto-eccentric polishers rotate and orbit simultaneously (approximately 8 mm orbit), guaranteeing excellent results both in terms of leveling and finishing.
All of the above is true if and only if pads and pastes are regularly replaced, but above all remembering to adjust the orbit:
- With the adjustment at maximum speed the cutting degree is high
- By adjusting at low speeds, any halo and hologram can be effectively eliminated.
Polishing with rotary machines.
This type of polisher can only be used by polishing experts or professionals: in fact, rotary polishers can correct imperfections much more quickly than random orbital and roto-eccentric but the their use requires practice and competence as they can cause damage to the paint more frequently. to finish the work performed with this polisher with a random orbital.
But let's see in detail how to use it:
- Evaluate the bodywork defect you want to correct, choose the right pad and finally center the pad on the pad;
- Apply a few drops of polish on the outside of the pad;
- Outline the work area, the ideal is a portion of 60cmx40cm
- Distribute the polish evenly with the polisher turned off over the entire surface to be treated;
- Turn on the polisher at minimum speed (600-800 rpm) and distribute the product on the surface;
- Adjust the power of the polisher according to your convenience, always taking into account the extent of the defects to be corrected (about 2000 revolutions are recommended);
- The press does not require particular pressure, since its movement exploits speed.
- Move the polisher about 2-5 cm per second trying to keep it always in motion and working from corner to corner.
- Once you have reached the opposite corner, follow the same path in reverse.
- Proceed until polishing is complete.
- Polish the area again, but following the opposite direction to the previous operation.
- Polish the area again as during the first pass, but applying less pressure and lowering the revolutions (up to 1000-800 revolutions).
- If the polish has deteriorated (it becomes a dull patina), turn off the polisher;
- Using Micron 2F , remove the deteriorated polish;
- Check the polishing by means of a light source.
- Repeat the procedure until an optimal result is achieved.
NB: after polishing two areas of the bodywork it is absolutely advisable to replace the pad with a fresh one, if you do not have many pads, remember to wash them with the aid of a toothbrush, keeping them at low speed after a couple of sessions work.
CHECKING THE POLISHING.
Knowing well the breaking times of the abrasives contained in the polishes is essential to be sure that you have correctly carried out the polishing operations: in fact, being products with a complex structure, if they are not left to act for the necessary time, they will not carry out their work correctly. correction cycle leaving only their oily part to act.
This means that the defects will not be perfectly corrected, but only masked and corrected by the oils.
Thanks to D2 Check , which has the task of cleaning the surface from excess oils, highlighting the actual work obtained, it will be possible to evaluate the extent of the defects not removed
Obviously the latter is an optional and not mandatory step after polishing, while it is necessary before the drafting of a nanotechnological treatment that requires a completely clean surface.
AFTER POLISHING.
At the end of the polishing process, we will obtain a decidedly clearer transparent with more intense reflections.
The bodywork will certainly be smoother to the touch and silky.
To complete the polishing, you can proceed with the application of a glaze such as G1 Glossy , Adam's Brilliant Glaze or a sealant such as SC0 Hydro Sealant or SC1 Sealant .
These products will help improve the aesthetics of the surface in the case of glaze, while they will protect it if we opt for a sealant.
You can learn more about this point by following our guide to the paragraph:
What are glazes .